Zdeňka Bauerová's name is synonymous with Czech fashion from the second half of the 20th century to the present, following up on the tradition of the renowned fashion houses of the First Czechoslovak Republic era such as Hana Podolská's and Oldřich Rosenbaum's.
Zdeňka Bauerova was born in Bechyně in 1930. Before studying at the AAAD in Prague she received an apprenticeship certificate as a dressmaker and completed her studies at the Secondary School of Art and Design in Brno. She perfected her practical knowledge in the studio of fashion design, led by the exceptional and versatile Hedvika Vlková at the AAAD in Prague from 1952 to 1959. After graduating she soon returned to the AAAD as Hedvika Vlková's assistant, becoming the head of the studio in 1970. It took her two years to receive the docent degree (assistant professor) and she was appointed a full professor in 1982. She took an active part in the studio's adminitration until the early 1990s. In addition to her pedagogical activities, Zdeňka Bauerová also worked as a fashion designer, first in salon Eva – the former salon Podolská. In 1968, she started working in salon Styl – the former salon Rosenbaum – where she stayed until 1992 when this exclusive salon with its focus on costum-made tailoring closed down. The following year she started working for the newly established fashion house Yvett Ajchler, which had a very challenging goal – to follow up on the tradition of famous pre-war Prague-based fashion salons.
Zdeňka Bauerová has always percieved fashion as a distinct means of creative expresion with figurative inspiration as the first stage. Based on clothing viewed from the perspective of volume – individual models are designed as plastic kinetic formations full of colors – her creative method is characterized by an elaborated concept of cuts, modelling and creating the basic silhouette on indiviuals or reduced models. Her distinctive style iss fully embedded in a sensitive understanding of contemporary art. Her selection of materials is determined primarily by the fact that Bauerová understands fabrics as inspirational matter the variety of which is enriched with new technologies and challenges her to use unusual combinations. Applying non-homogenous materials, e.g. the contrast between a compact texture and a transparent one, she creates unconventional combinations and endows individual models with a specific look and aesthetic. The solid logical structure is bound up with details which become not only an additional decorative element but also an organic part of the design. The distinct, individually created model is enhanced by perfect craftsmanship.
As for her career, Zdeňka Bauerová has always evenly divided her time between working for fashion salons and teaching at the AAAD in Prague. She designed two seasonal collections a year for salon Styl which were widely covered by the media and set the trends in the field of exclusive fashion design and tailoring in the Czech Republic. In addition to clothes made for individual clients, she has also designed film costumes and participated in designing representative national collections, Including the creation of a very successful collection for EXPO 67 in Montreal with Eva Fialová. She applied her insights and creative principles from designing in her pedagogical activities. She always put emphasis on perfect cuts, modelling and expert tailoring combined with creativity and individuality.
Professor Zdeňka Bauerová brought up several generations of Czech fashion designers. She continues having an impact on the high standards set for this creative field in the Czech Republic through her former students. Thus, even the youngest generation of fashion designers today feels the influence of her creative approach.
Konstantina Hlaváčková