CGD

Zuzana Kubíčková’s work has been gradually transforming through a smooth, thoughtful process. For almost two decades, her collections have been developing as organic wholes that have retained a legible DNA and a consistent artistic style. The silhouettes develop similarly to language, by means of soft shifts and new accents, and her aesthetics remain cultivated without succumbing to seasonal trends. Her exceptional work with the body, material and construction makes her work come across as natural while remaining uncompromisingly contemporary. Sexiness is not a cheap thrill but rather a form of sophistication, and Zuzana’s work can be understood as a long-term research project into the morphology of femininity. While Kafka understands metamorphosis as the loss of identity and a source of existential anxiety, this leading Czech fashion designer rather sees it as an act of self-affirmation. Her outfits do not deform or hide the body, but rather allow it to become more articulated, confident and present. Femininity is not a costume or an ascribed role but develops from careful work with form.

Zuzana Kubíčková introduced her eleventh couture collection towards the end of March 2025 in the Křižík pavilion at Prague’s Výstaviště exhibition grounds. It consisted of thirty-three outfits that aimed to illustrate the transformations and structures of nature while exploring the connection between fashion and technology. Kubíčková again confirmed that her shows are not mere presentations but that they are among the most original events on the local fashion scene – and not just for the outfits themselves but also because of her overall approach featuring the unique scenography designed by Marek Cpin and her focus on meticulous styling done in collaboration with Jan Králíček. The Morphology collection picks up on this tradition and also constitutes an important moment in Kubíčková’s overall oeuvre. It has confirmed her ability to understand couture not only as top-notch craft but rather as a medium of thought, confirming that fashion can be at the same time visually striking and emotionally impactful while remaining traditional. Whereas the contemporary context often oscillates between a glamorous gesture and quick consumption of visual effects, Kubíčková has rather adopted an opinionated position. She does not fall back on trendy features and nostalgia, preferring to present her own legible and cultured language that she has been developing over the years. Her work shows that contemporary femininity needn’t slide towards affect or effective shortcuts and that relevance can grow out of continuity rather than radical variability. The Morphology collection has confirmed what we have known for at least the last few seasons – that Zuzana Kubíčková does not need to shout in order to be heard; she needn’t shock in order to be seen. She is well able to grab and keep her audience’s attention with her outfits alone, with their perfect morphology.

Andrea Běhounková