CGD

Zuzana Kubíčková’s work has been gradually transforming through a smooth, thoughtful process. For almost two decades, her collections have been developing as organic wholes that have retained a legible DNA and a consistent artistic style. The silhouettes develop similarly to language, by means of soft shifts and new accents, and her aesthetics remain cultivated without succumbing to seasonal trends. Her exceptional work with the body, material and construction makes her work come across as natural while remaining uncompromisingly contemporary. Sexiness is not a cheap thrill but rather a form of sophistication, and Zuzana’s work can be understood as a long-term research project into the morphology of femininity. While Kafka understands metamorphosis as the loss of identity and a source of existential anxiety, this leading Czech fashion designer rather sees it as an act of self-affirmation. Her outfits do not deform or hide the body, but rather allow it to become more articulated, confident and present. Femininity is not a costume or an ascribed role but develops from careful work with form.

Zuzana Kubíčková introduced her eleventh couture collection towards the end of March 2025 in the Křižík pavilion at Prague’s Výstaviště exhibition grounds. It consisted of thirty-three outfits that aimed to illustrate the transformations and structures of nature while exploring the connection between fashion and technology. Kubíčková again confirmed that her shows are not mere presentations but that they are among the most original events on the local fashion scene – and not just for the outfits themselves but also because of her overall approach featuring the unique scenography designed by Marek Cpin and her focus on meticulous styling done in collaboration with Jan Králíček. The Morphology collection picks up on this tradition and also constitutes an important moment in Kubíčková’s overall oeuvre. It has confirmed her ability to understand couture not only as top-notch craft but rather as a medium of thought, confirming that fashion can be at the same time visually striking and emotionally impactful while remaining traditional. Whereas the contemporary context often oscillates between a glamorous gesture and quick consumption of visual effects, Kubíčková has rather adopted an opinionated position. She does not fall back on trendy features and nostalgia, preferring to present her own legible and cultured language that she has been developing over the years. Her work shows that contemporary femininity needn’t slide towards affect or effective shortcuts and that relevance can grow out of continuity rather than radical variability. The Morphology collection has confirmed what we have known for at least the last few seasons – that Zuzana Kubíčková does not need to shout in order to be heard; she needn’t shock in order to be seen. She is well able to grab and keep her audience’s attention with her outfits alone, with their perfect morphology.

Andrea Běhounková

Fashion designer Zuzana Kubíčková celebrated ten years of her studio. She did so in the most appropriate way: with the Couture 2022/23 collection, which is her most beautiful to date. It’s a collection that represents and further develops the best of Kubíčková’s work. A collection that is truly a collection. In the context of the contemporary Czech fashion scene, when any random grouping of garments is called a collection, Zuzana Kubíčková returns this word to its original meaning. She does so through perfectly mastered craftsmanship, generous, not megalomaniacal ideas, a clear vision and a coherent artistic concept in which each model has a precise place. Over many seasons, the designer has proved that one cannot exist without the other and that every detail, even the smallest one, plays an important role. Her work doesn't have to shout to be seen. 

The leitmotif of the Couture 2022/23 collection is time: its passage, limitlessness, boundlessness. Continuity. Beautiful memories of the most beautiful dresses. Memories to which only time can give a new and unexpected meaning. 

The main materials used are those we expect from Zuzana Kubíčková's studio. Women are again introduced to the realm of silk, satin, lace, decorative embroidery, crystal, and pearls. Naturally, there is not much talking here, only the occasional rustle of fabric, into which scissors cut unerringly, the subtle hushed laughter of seamstresses who sew by hand, and the distant click of high heels. This is what luxury sounds like. 

Black is the dominant colour. Again, it has to do with time, its eternity completely independent of it. A shiny black looks quite different from a matt one. Black doesn't need another colour palette to come to life, it just occasionally invites white in different shades, as well as powder. Red is seen here and there in an imaginative accent. This is quite sufficient, however.  

Zuzana Kubíčková makes it clear that her fashion creations are meaningful and sustainable. This time, she does so with the most graceful gesture, and the most self-conscious and completely unquestionable we have seen to date. A gesture that bears the name Couture 2022/23.

Andrea Běhounková