CGD23

Rather less, but better. Perhaps this was what Slovakian-born, Prague-based designer Boris Kráľ was envisioning for his intimate and slightly decadent collection of evening dress. One cannot quite consider it a return onto the fashion scene, partly because apart from a few student presentations and small projects there is nothing to return to, and partly because it constitutes a step in a wholly new direction. The years spent working for other designers as a fitter, cut designer and tailor certainly helped Boris sort his thoughts and formulate who he is, what he wants to say, and where he might find his expressive and aesthetic calling. And it comes as no surprise that he found it in making garments for special occasions. Meaning typical, bespoke, salon fashion. It is not an easy game, and one would be hard pressed to find strong and visionary designers there. Someone who would transcend the scale of confection, go beyond mere elegance and court more abstract fashion forms. Because this field needs high-quality craftsmanship rather than talent. And herein lies the rub. How many more pretty dresses do we really need? And will the story they tell be enough? Boris Kráľ’s return on the scene, combined with great elan and energy for his debuting fashion salon, has proven enchanting and interesting. He revisits his childhood dreams, returning to his old and unrealized high school sketches, and redefining the naive perspective on his retro muses. He has managed to present himself and prove that he is a cultivated and well-defined designer. We get a sense of nostalgia for the classic look of evening robes, the desire for assertive elegance and the swish of petticoats. So, what comes next? Will it be enough to work through nostalgia and impeccable craftsmanship? Or will he enter a new category, perhaps in the realm of DCE (Deconstructed Classical Elegance)? The ambition is certainly there.

Jan Králíček